Transient Surf Zone Circulation Induced by Rhythmic Swash Zone at a Reflective Beach - Université de Rennes Accéder directement au contenu
Communication Dans Un Congrès Année : 2017

Transient Surf Zone Circulation Induced by Rhythmic Swash Zone at a Reflective Beach

Résumé

The influence of cuspate swash dynamics on transient surf zone circulation is investigated using both field observation at the low-tide terraced Grand Popo beach and wave-phase resolving numerical simulations. The ability of the model to describing low-tide terrace beach hydrodynamic is tested, and the model is further applied to investigate the role of wave reflection over a rhythmic swash zone pattern on surf zone wave and current. In the numerical simulations, these mechanisms drive higher surf zone irregularities with beach cusps than for an alongshore-uniform swash zone morphology. Rhythmic swash-based reflection generates a standing wave pattern visible in current and wave fields. The positive feedback of reflection on incoming waves drives occasional strong flash rips occurring with different frequencies than individual waves or groups. The so called breakpoint-swash system is thought to pulse with its own temporal characteristics, which depends on wave forcing but also on surf zone terrace and cuspate morphology.
Fichier principal
Vignette du fichier
almar2017transient.pdf (8.02 Mo) Télécharger le fichier
Origine : Fichiers produits par l'(les) auteur(s)
Loading...

Dates et versions

hal-01573717 , version 1 (10-08-2017)

Licence

Copyright (Tous droits réservés)

Identifiants

  • HAL Id : hal-01573717 , version 1

Citer

Rafael Almar, Alexandre Nicolae Lerma, Pierre Dérian, Bruno Castelle, Timothy Scott. Transient Surf Zone Circulation Induced by Rhythmic Swash Zone at a Reflective Beach. Coastal Dynamics 2017, Jun 2017, Helsingør, Denmark. ⟨hal-01573717⟩
607 Consultations
126 Téléchargements

Partager

Gmail Facebook X LinkedIn More